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From Casual Day Dress to Elegant Evening Frock and What's Underneath?: Sewing the Charm Patterns Barbara Bodice and Charm Patterns Petticoat



Charm Patterns Barbara Bodice and Homecoming Skirt in cotton Petite Garden Party fabric by Rifle Paper Company

Now that all the summer trips are over and school is back in swing, I've been super busy in my home sewing studio creating all kinds of new things. It feels wonderful to really be tackling my stack of printed patterns and cutting into some of the fabrics I've amassed over the summer. I have so many plans and ideas for all the things I want to make that it's a challenge just to choose what to tackle next. I did know, however, that as soon as I had the chance to settle in that the first thing on my list would be the Charm Patterns Barbara Bodice. Released last July in anticipation of the Barbie movie (hence the pattern's name), the Barbara Bodice is a fantastically cute version of the white and pink gingham number that Barbie wears early in the film. It features princess seams and little shoulder ties that I think make it the perfect summer dress bodice. When the Barbara Bodice was released I was very deeply entrenched in comic con sewing and didn't really have time or focus to dive into fitting something new and by the time I got back into the swing of things after Christmas, the moment had passed. Until now. I have been keeping a running tab in my head of all the things I want to make this fall and in roughly what order as I've gone through the year, so I am definitely primed for hardcore sewing. First was Barbara and her accompanying skirt friend the Milicent Skirt (which will be appearing soon), next is the Charm Sloper, which I'm almost done fitting and ready to cut a prototype dress for, then the Peggy Bodice, which I'm super excited to dive into because of its super cute cut on sleeves and which I've never done in a dress before. But for now, back to today's dress story.




Charm Patterns Barbara Bodice in cottonRiley Blake Designs Gone Glamping

I mocked up a quick version of the Barbara Bodice about nine days ago and instantly fell in love. It's super easy to make and comes together quite quickly; the style lends itself so well to novelty print cottons. I had a few yards of an adorable Riley Blake Designs fabric in the Gone Glamping line that I had envisioned in this bodice since I got it and knew that would be the inaugural Barbara Dress. I only had three and a half yards which left me no other option than a gathered skirt, a style I don't normally like, however, I love the combo so much that I'm kind of excited to start incorporating more gathered skirts into my dressmaking--being able to pre-hem is such an incredible incentive! The great things about this bodice, in my opinion, are found in the lovely scoop neckline (and scoop back) and whimsical shoulder ties. (This pattern also has a wide strap option.) These elements are super special little touches that make the dress feel high effort, but are wonderfully breezy to wear. I will say that while I did a great job of sewing my shoulder ties into the lining of the bodice, I clipped all my seam allowances too close and a bunch of my straps popped to the outside, so lesson learned for the next time. I love this version of the dress and I'm really excited to wear it out this week.



Charm Patterns Barbara Bodice and Homecoming Skirt in enhanced size to show skirt underlay detail



Bodice details of Charm Patterns Barbara Bodice

Immediately upon finishing the above dress, named Child of the Glampground (for the origin story of this naming convention, read my July 25 entry about all my comic con looks), I knew I wanted to make a more elevated version. I've had this Rifle Paper Company Petite Garden Party print in the blue on black colorway (they have produced many versions of this print) for most of the year now and have wanted to make a look more geared toward evening with it. How fortunate for me that Charm Patterns released the Homecoming Skirt pattern for Patreon on the first of the month, giving me the perfect partner for Barbara and the blue floral fabric. The Homecoming Skirt's special feature is its asymmetrical overlay, which cascades down the skirt front in pleated ripples, allowing a glimpse at the contrasting underlay fabric. For this version, I chose a blue toned gingham (my love for gingham could be--and may eventually become--its own blog post) for the underlay and bodice lining. As you can see in the enlarged photo above, the gingham peaks out from under the overlay folds along the skirt front--it makes me think of a picnic blanket spread out in a beautiful garden of blue flowers late at night. Because of the image this dress conjures, it has earned the name Child of the Midnight Garden. Who wouldn't want to go on that picnic? I absolutely love this skirt and will definitely make more of them in the future. Circle skirts are my favorite skirt shape and I make them all the time, so extra features are great to have. I love when Charm releases simpler designs that lend versatility to my sewing (and wardrobe) while still allowing me to stay in my comfort zone.





Charm Patterns Petticoat in silk organza and silk/cotton voile

The Charm Patterns Petticoat is the first major project I tackled after getting into the swing of my fall sewing. I have a real issue with synthetic fabrics and I truly hate wearing them. Unfortunately, most commercially sold petticoats (which are getting harder and harder to find) are made of synthetic fabrics. Earlier this year, Charm released the fledgling patterns of their new foundations line--this petticoat and a waist shaper that I will also make in the hopefully not too distant future-- and I was immediately romanced into ordering seven yards of silk organza to try it out. Now. Maybe to some people spending a hundred dollars on fussy fabric to then sit for several movies worth of time hand gathering the finicky and fraying silk doesn't sound like a good time, but I am not some people. I loved this project so much and am so happy with the results that the only thing really preventing me from getting the fabric to make the insanely decadent three layer version is the fact that it costs about a hundred dollars a layer. Three hundred dollars is a lot to spend on floof. But I know me, and it will happen eventually. I mean, look at how that organza glows in the sunlight!




Charm Patterns Petticoat

It's also true that a three layer version of this garment would have a very large footprint and be better suited to comic con dresses and more costumey looks than daily wear, but it would make my dresses look so amazing in blog photos! The version I have now is superbly suited for giving just the right amount of bounce to dresses on date nights. It's hard to explain just how much fabric is in this thing, but the photo to the left gives sort of an idea how voluminous the petticoat actually is. Maybe in the dead of winter when inspiration strikes I'll order twenty one yards of organza and go to town gathering so my comic con looks can be especially fabulous this year. I am planning a rather new direction for my outfits this year and a massive petticoat would be just the ticket. I also have a yard of red silk charmeuse that is just begging to be the yoke of something fancy.





Charm Patterns Camille


Bodice details of Charm Patterns Camille

Last blog, I showed you some dresses that I had underway for a special event during the runDisney Halloween weekend at Disneyland. The special event was a night out at a tiki bar in Anaheim with friends, and of course a night at a tiki bar requires a fun tropical inspired dress. What better for a Halloween themed weekend tiki bar adventure than a Charm Patterns Camille dress in a fun Halloween print? For this version I incorporated piping along the midriff top and bottom, which is a first for me. I've done neckline piping before, but never in the body of a dress. (For a more in-depth discussion of this dress and what makes it unique, have a look at my blog about convention season sewing and the Camille Dress.) I find that any time I see a Halloween print with neighborhood landscapes I am instantly attracted to it. I see the different houses and design features in the print and I have to have it. I love these kids in their classic Halloween monster costumes trick or treating through the neighborhood. It feels so homey and comforting to me. I paired this dress with a pin I got at comic con (see photo to the right), made by the artist Rhode Montijo. If you like Halloween and autumnal themed artwork with a retro/vintage flair, I highly suggest giving him a look on Instagram. He has so many things I want to buy, but I have to pace myself. This pin is the perfect accompaniment to the shoulder ties of the Camille. Now I need a pin or brooch for every version. Until next time!



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